A morning shower that stops mid-rinse. Dishes half-clean. Washing machine dead in the water. When your well system hiccups, life grinds to a halt. I’ve sat at more than a few kitchen tables with families staring at a drip from the faucet while I traced the real culprit—not just a tired pump, but a mismatched, undersized, or failing pressure tank that sent a good system into a hard-cycling death spiral.
Now meet the Aranas—a new-to-rural family who learned this lesson the expensive way. Miguel Arana (39), a high school math teacher, and his partner, Priya (37), a neonatal nurse, moved with their kids, Rafael (8) and Lila (5), to 6 acres outside Baker City, Oregon. Their 240-foot private well fed a 1 HP Myers Predator Plus submersible delivering 12 GPM—on paper, perfect for a three-bath home with a garden and laundry. But their old 20-gallon total tank (about 5-6 gallons of drawdown) cycled the pump 35–45 times per day. After a summer of irrigation loads and frequent stop-starts, the previous pump—a budget brand—burned out. That’s when they came to PSAM and I sized them correctly: a Myers Predator Plus matched to a right-sized, properly set pressure tank. No gimmicks. Just field-tested best practice.
In this guide, I’ll show you how to pick a pressure tank that protects your Myers submersible, stabilizes pressure at the fixtures, and cuts your electric bill. We’ll cover sizing using real flow rates, choosing the right pressure setting, understanding drawdown math, selecting materials that survive grit and oxygenated water, and plumbing layouts that eliminate short cycling. Along the way, I’ll explain how superior construction in Myers Pumps (Predator Plus Series, 300 series stainless, Pentek XE motors) pays off—especially when you pair the pump with a tank that won’t sabotage it.
Here’s where we’re headed:
- #1: Sizing by drawdown—not sticker volume #2: Matching pump GPM to tank drawdown and pressure switch #3: Pressure settings for consistent showers and irrigation #4: Materials and lining choices that resist corrosion #5: Piping layout, tank tee, and check valve placement #6: One tank or two? Parallel strategies for large homes #7: Pump protection—pressure tank’s role in longevity #8: Electrical and pressure switch coordination #9: 2-wire vs 3-wire pump systems—what changes for tanks #10: Maintenance, precharge, and troubleshooting #11: Cold climates, off-grid, and special-case setups #12: Cost of ownership and why Myers + PSAM is worth it
Awards and trust matter when water is your lifeline. Myers Pumps—owned by Pentair—deliver 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP, with premium Predator Plus submersibles using 300 series stainless construction, Teflon-impregnated staging, and Pentek XE high-thrust motors. Combine that with an industry-leading 3-year warranty, Made in USA quality, and PSAM’s same-day plumbingsupplyandmore.com shipping on core items, and you’ve got a system that’s built to last and supported by real humans who’ve stood ankle-deep in well pits in January.
I’m Rick Callahan. I’ve sized, installed, and resurrected more residential well systems than I can count—deep wells, shallow wells, jet conversions, and multi-tank setups for irrigation and livestock. Here’s exactly how I’d walk you, or your contractor, through selecting the right pressure tank for your Myers well pump.
#1. Start With Drawdown, Not Sticker Size – Real Capacity at 30/50 or 40/60 With a Pressure Switch
A pressure tank’s sticker size isn’t its usable water. What matters is drawdown—the water you can actually use between pump cycles at a given pressure setting.
Technical explanation
- Drawdown depends on tank volume, bladder design, and the pressure switch range (commonly 30/50 or 40/60 PSI). A “44-gallon” tank may only deliver about 12–16 gallons of usable drawdown at 40/60 PSI. For a Myers submersible well pump pushing 10–12 GPM, you want at least 1 minute of run time to cool the motor and reduce starts—preferably 2 minutes. That means a minimum 10–12 gallons, ideally 20–24 gallons drawdown per cycle. Use manufacturer drawdown charts, not guesses.
Real-world family example
- Miguel and Priya’s old “20-gallon” tank gave roughly 5–6 gallons drawdown at 40/60. Their 1 HP Myers ran 15–20 seconds per cycle with irrigation. After we upgraded to an 86-gallon tank (about 25–28 gallons drawdown at 40/60), the pump ran for 2+ minutes per cycle—motor temps dropped, starts/day halved, and pressure stabilized.
Pro Tip: Use 2 Minutes as Your Baseline
Two minutes of run time is the sweet spot for most homes. For a 12 GPM pump, aim at 24 gallons drawdown. For 7–8 GPM, target 14–16 gallons.
How to Read Drawdown Charts Correctly
Confirm the chart is for your pressure switch setting. Drawdown drops as you move from 30/50 to 40/60. If you might upgrade to 40/60 for better showers, size the tank with that in mind so you don’t lose runtime.
Avoid “Tiny Tank Syndrome”
Small tanks are cheaper upfront and very expensive over 5–10 years. Short cycling kills motors, pressure switches, and check valves. The right drawdown pays you back.
Key takeaway: Select pressure tank size by drawdown at your chosen pressure range, not by nominal volume printed on the label.
#2. Match Tank to Pump Output – GPM Rating, TDH, and the Pump Curve Matter
The tank must be sized to the pump’s performance at your system’s total dynamic head (TDH).
Technical explanation
- Your Myers Predator Plus Series performance is governed by the pump curve—how many GPM it delivers at your system head (depth to water + lift + friction loss + desired pressure). A 1 HP Predator Plus at 240 feet TDH might deliver around 10–12 GPM at midcurve. The tank should provide at least 1–2 minutes of run time at that GPM. That’s how you prevent rapid cycling.
Competitor comparison (detailed)
- Here’s where material and motor design translate to real-world sizing margins. Compared to many Goulds Pumps residential systems that incorporate cast iron components in ancillary equipment vulnerable to corrosion, the Myers approach pairs a stainless, high-efficiency, multi-stage deep well pump with a pressure tank sized for reduced cycles, letting the Pentek XE motor live long at optimal load. And versus Red Lion mid-range systems with thermoplastic housings that struggle with pressure swings and heat from frequent starts, Myers stays in its comfort zone—efficient at 80%+ near BEP, low amperage spikes, steady temperature. Over 10 years, fewer starts and cooler operation mean fewer replacements—worth every single penny.
Real-world family example
- The Aranas’ well-static level sits around 70 feet; pumping level drops to about 140 feet during irrigation. At 40/60 PSI, their Myers pump lands nicely near BEP at 11–12 GPM. We matched a tank providing 24–28 gallons drawdown—clean, safe runtime and rock-solid pressure.
Confirm TDH Before You Buy
Combine depth-to-water, service pressure (convert PSI to feet: PSI x 2.31), and friction loss. If you’re unsure, call PSAM. We’ll crunch it with you.
Midcurve Is Your Friend
Running near BEP myers pump keeps vibration and heat down, extends bearing and seal life, and stabilizes flow. Size your tank so the pump spends its life at that sweet spot.
Irrigation Changes the Math
If you irrigate for hours, nudge tank size up. Long, steady cycles are easier on everything.
Key takeaway: Use the pump curve and real GPM at TDH to set your minimum drawdown. Guessing leads to short cycling.
#3. Pick the Right Pressure Range – 30/50 vs 40/60 for Showers, Sprinklers, and Appliances
Your pressure switch setting determines how the tank behaves and how your home “feels.”
Technical explanation
- A pressure switch at 30/50 gives softer starts and more drawdown per tank, but fixtures feel weaker. A 40/60 setting improves showers and sprinkler performance, though it reduces drawdown and can add friction loss at higher flows. If your home has multi-head showers or longer runs, 40/60 is usually worth it—just upsize the tank accordingly.
Competitor comparison (brief)
- With a Myers submersible well pump running a Pentek XE motor, you’ve got the torque to maintain 40/60 without bogging. Some budget models can’t sustain flow at 60 PSI, forcing owners back to 30/50 and heavier cycling. Myers stays on-plane at higher pressure—worth every single penny.
Real-world family example
- Priya wanted strong shower pressure while laundry and the dishwasher ran. We shifted from 30/50 to 40/60 and increased tank drawdown from 14 to 26 gallons. Result: crisp pressure, calmer cycling, happy mornings.
How to Choose Your Range
- Single-bath homes: 30/50 often fine. Multi-bath, long runs, irrigation: 40/60 preferred. Irrigation zones with rotors: 40/60 keeps heads consistent.
Precharge Must Match
Set tank precharge 2 PSI below the cut-in (e.g., 38 PSI for a 40 PSI cut-in). Check with an accurate gauge before water is added.
Watch For Waterlogging Symptoms
If you dip near cut-in often and pressure “bounces,” verify bladder integrity and precharge.
Key takeaway: Decide pressure based on your usage profile. Then size the tank to preserve runtime at that setting.
#4. Choose Construction That Lasts – Steel Shells, Linings, and Air Bladder Integrity
The right tank build keeps your water clean and your system stable for a decade or more.
Technical explanation
- Look for a high-quality diaphragm or bladder-style pressure tank with a heavy-gauge steel shell and NSF-approved liner. Oxygen, iron, and CO2 attack thin linings. A robust internal air cell prevents waterlogging and keeps drawdown consistent. I prefer welded steel shells with baked-on epoxy liners and butyl diaphragms. Corrosion-resistant fittings at the tank tee matter, too.
Competitor comparison (detailed)
- Material selection shows up in service records. Some Goulds Pumps system packages historically paired with lighter tanks can see early corrosion in oxygenated, mineral-rich water. Meanwhile, Red Lion systems that lean on thermoplastic components simply don’t manage pressure fluctuations as cleanly under 40/60 service. The Myers ecosystem—with stainless pump construction and a properly sized, pro-grade steel tank—handles daily cycling, seasonal irrigation, and temperature swings without the crack-corrode-replace loop. Factor in fewer service calls, lower replacement frequency, and more consistent water quality, and the lifetime cost delta shrinks fast—worth every single penny.
Real-world family example
- Miguel’s old tank had a flimsy liner and failed bladder. We swapped in a pro-grade steel tank with a high-integrity butyl bladder. No more air spurts at fixtures, no more waterlogging.
Liner and Diaphragm Materials
Butyl diaphragms outperform generic rubber in longevity. Epoxy liners resist rust and protect taste. Ask PSAM for spec sheets.
Fittings and Tank Tees
Use a corrosion-resistant tank tee with a proper drain and ports for gauge, switch, and relief valve. Cheap tees rust internally and contaminate water.
Mounting and Orientation
Vertical mounting protects the diaphragm from debris settling. Ensure adequate clearance for the Schrader valve and service access.
Key takeaway: A tank’s build quality is as important as its size. Buy once. Install right. Forget about it for years.
#5. Pipe It Right – Tank Tee, Check Valve Location, and 1-1/4" NPT Flow
Even a perfect tank fails a bad installation. Flow path and check valve placement matter.
Technical explanation
- The check valve belongs at the pump or just above it—not at the tank. Additional checks near the tank cause “trapped” pressure and water hammer. Use a full-bore 1-1/4" NPT tank tee for typical residential systems—many Myers setups use 1-1/4" discharge to keep friction loss down. Install a gauge, relief valve (75 PSI setting is typical), and a properly wired pressure switch on the tank tee. Balanced flow reduces turbulence and extends diaphragm life.
Real-world family example
- The Aranas inherited a check valve at the tank and another at the pump. The result: hammer, chatter, and inconsistent cut-in. We removed the tank-side check, upsized a restriction, and restored laminar flow. Quiet, clean cycling returned instantly.
The Right Check Valve Strategy
One good check—at or above the pump—prevents backspin and keeps columns stable. Extra checks create problems.
Friction Loss Is Silent Theft
Undersized pipe robs pressure and invites rapid cycles. From pitless adapter to tank, keep diameters consistent with pump discharge.
Protect the Pressure Switch
Mount the switch on the tank tee where it “sees” true system pressure. Add a snubber if chatter is present.
Key takeaway: Follow best-practice plumbing: single check near the pump, full-port tank tee, and tidy wiring. Your tank will thank you.
#6. When One Tank Isn’t Enough – Parallel Tanks for Larger Homes, Irrigation, and Livestock
Bigger or split-demand properties benefit from more drawdown and smoother supply.
Technical explanation
- Parallel tanks increase total drawdown without changing cut-in/cut-out. Plumb them with equal-length branches and full-port valves for service isolation. For a residential well water system with irrigation zones exceeding 12 GPM, doubling from ~25 to ~50 gallons drawdown extends runtime dramatically, lowering starts per day.
Competitor context (brief)
- Myers Predator Plus Series pumps thrive on long, steady cycles. Properly staged parallel tanks keep flow at BEP, leveraging the pump’s efficiency and the Pentek XE motor’s thermal protection.
Real-world family example
- Miguel plans a larger garden and a drip-plus-rotor mix next summer. We’ll stage a second 44-gallon tank in parallel to carry irrigation surges and keep indoor pressure steady when laundry and showers overlap.
Piping Symmetry
Use a “T” to split equally or a reverse-return layout to balance draw from each tank. Label isolation valves for easy service.
Staggered Service
Parallel tanks let you isolate one tank for maintenance without shutting down the house.
Irrigation Scheduling
Run zones in blocks that match your pump’s GPM to avoid start-stop bursts.
Key takeaway: Parallel tanks are a smart upgrade when demand grows. Size for your worst case, not last season.
#7. Protect the Pump – How the Pressure Tank Extends Motor and Impeller Life
Short cycling kills good pumps. The right tank keeps your Myers running cool and clean.
Technical explanation
- Every start dumps heat into windings and stresses bearings and seals. Pentek XE motors have thermal overload protection and lightning protection, but they’re not invincible. For a Myers multi-stage pump with engineered composite impellers and Teflon-impregnated staging, fewer starts translate to less abrasion and vibration. Bigger drawdown equals longer run times and fewer starts/day. That’s free insurance.
Competitor context (brief)
- I’ve replaced budget pumps that cycled 60–80 times/day, burning bearings and warping impellers. Myers’ premium build wants long, steady runs—exactly what a well-sized tank delivers.
Real-world family example
- After swapping the Aranas to a higher-drawdown tank, daily starts dropped from roughly 40 to 18–20. The pump runs quieter and cooler, and Priya noticed the water pressure no longer yo-yos when the washing machine fills.
Starts Per Day Targets
Strive for under 25 starts/day in normal use; under 15 during irrigation is even better.
Drawdown vs Duty Cycle
If you regularly trip short cycles, increase tank size or adjust irrigation zones to match pump GPM.
Keep the Intake Clean
A clean intake screen and downstream filtration reduce particulate load that chews up impellers.
Key takeaway: Your tank is the pump’s shock absorber. Size it right and your Myers will routinely outlive the averages.
#8. Coordinate Electrical and Controls – Pressure Switch, Amperage, and Single-Phase Reality
The control side must complement hydraulic choices.
Technical explanation
- Match your pressure switch rating to pump voltage and current—most Myers 1/2–1.5 HP residential units are 230V single-phase motors. Confirm the switch’s contact rating exceeds the motor’s amperage draw. Use a fused disconnect and proper gauge wire from service panel to switch. Keep control wiring tidy and protected from moisture at the tank tee.
Competitor context (brief)
- Myers offers both 2-wire and 3-wire options. With 2-wire, controls are internal, reducing parts count. Some premium brands push external control complexity even for simple residential setups. Straightforward, reliable, and field-serviceable wins for most homeowners.
Real-world family example
- We verified the Aranas’ switch contacts were pitted from rapid cycling. New switch, correct precharge, correct tank size—problem vanished. The motor starts smoother and less often.
Verify Voltage
Measure actual voltage at the pressure switch under load. Low voltage shortens pump life.
Grounding and Surge
Proper grounding and a surge protector help safeguard against lightning—especially on rural lines.
Control Box Location (3-wire pumps)
Mount the control box in a dry, accessible location. Label everything for the next tech—maybe future-you.
Key takeaway: Your tank decision changes your start frequency, which changes your electrical stress. Align all three: tank, hydraulics, and controls.
#9. 2-Wire vs 3-Wire Pumps – What It Means for Your Tank and Your Wallet
Both configurations work beautifully with a properly sized tank—here’s how to choose.
Technical explanation
- A 2-wire well pump contains start components within the motor. Simpler wiring, fewer parts, and often lower upfront cost. A 3-wire well pump uses an external control box, making capacitor/service replacements easier without pulling the pump. For the tank, the rules don’t change: precharge, drawdown, and pressure settings remain the same. Your tank doesn’t care—your maintenance plan does.
Competitor comparison (detailed)
- Some Franklin Electric setups lean on proprietary control strategies and dealer networks for component swaps. Myers gives you practical flexibility with 2-wire and 3-wire choices on the same horsepower classes, plus a field serviceable ethos that lets qualified contractors handle common service without red tape. And unlike certain Grundfos residential packages that push 3-wire complexity and add $200–$400 in control box costs for basic homes, Myers lets you keep it streamlined when that’s the right call. Simpler installs, less to fail, and easier field service—worth every single penny.
Real-world family example
- For Miguel and Priya, we went 2-wire on their 1 HP since access is tight and they prefer fewer wall-mounted components. If their property expands and they add a booster later, we’ll revisit configuration.
When to Choose 2-Wire
Standard homes, uncomplicated installs, tight spaces, or when minimizing components is a priority.
When 3-Wire Shines
Very deep wells, long runs where serviceability is valuable, or contractor preference for external capacitor swaps.
Tank Rules Stay the Same
Whatever you pick, size the tank by drawdown at your pressure range. That never changes.
Key takeaway: Choose wiring based on service preferences; size the tank by hydraulics. Myers supports both paths well.
#10. Maintenance That Matters – Precharge, Gauges, and Annual Checkups
Your pressure tank is low-maintenance, not no-maintenance.
Technical explanation
- Set the air precharge to 2 PSI below cut-in with the tank empty of water. Check annually with a reliable gauge. Verify pressure switch contacts for pitting; replace if worn. Inspect the relief valve and drain. Flush sediment from the tank tee if your water carries grit. Track starts/day if you can—smart switches make this easy.
Real-world family example
- We logged the Aranas’ starts/day for a month post-upgrade. Average: 19. Precharge stayed at 38 PSI for a 40/60 setting. That kind of consistency means the bladder is healthy and the tank is doing its job.
Annual Maintenance Checklist
- Confirm precharge Inspect switch points and wiring Exercise isolation valves Check for leaks and corrosion at fittings Verify gauge accuracy
Signs of Trouble
- Air spurts at taps Rapid pressure drops Short cycling at light demand Frequent pump starts with no flow (possible leaks)
Protect Your Investment
A five-minute precharge check can add years to your pump’s life. Put it on your calendar.
Key takeaway: Tiny maintenance habits prevent expensive failures. Treat your tank like the asset it is.
#11. Cold Climates and Special Cases – Freeze Protection, Off-Grid, and Seasonal Cabins
Environmental realities change tank decisions.
Technical explanation
- In cold climates, locate the tank in conditioned space or a well-insulated utility room. Use heat trace on vulnerable lines and insulate the pitless adapter zone. Seasonal cabins benefit from drain-down valves and easy winterization. Off-grid homes should consider larger drawdown to reduce starts, especially if running on inverters or generators where surge load is costly.
Real-world family example
- Eastern Oregon winters dip well below freezing. We confirmed the Aranas’ mechanical room stays above 55°F and insulated the drop pipe near the foundation penetration. Winterized hose bib loops with isolation ball valves make seasonal tasks painless.
Off-Grid Considerations
- Larger tanks smooth generator and inverter load Consider a booster pump for rainwater/backup integration Design for minimal starts to conserve battery
Seasonal Drain-Down
- Install drain cocks at low points Label valves clearly for whoever does the winter routine Use non-toxic antifreeze in traps—not in the potable system
Relief and Safety
- Always include a relief valve on the tank tee. Frozen lines without relief equals risk.
Key takeaway: Local climate and power sources dictate tweaks. Plan for them at install, not after a freeze.
#12. Total Cost of Ownership – Why Myers + PSAM Sizing Pays Back for Decades
Decisions at installation dictate 10–20 years of outcomes.
Technical explanation
- Myers deep well pump design—300 series stainless steel, Teflon-impregnated staging, and Pentek XE motors—thrives when cycling is controlled. A correctly selected pressure tank maintains long run times, fewer starts, and steady pressure. With an industry-leading 3-year warranty, 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP, and U.S. manufacturing, Myers pushes well beyond the 8–15 year expectation when maintained.
Competitor context (brief summary)
- In my field logs, budget pumps (Everbilt/Flotec-class) often fail in 3–5 years, especially when paired with small tanks. Premium-but-complex systems can add cost without practical homeowner benefits. Myers strikes the balance: pro-grade internals, straightforward service, and PSAM’s stocking and support—worth every single penny.
Real-world family example
- Miguel’s electric bills dipped after cycling dropped; pressure steadied; service calls vanished. He told me the new tank felt “invisible”—which is exactly right. Good systems disappear into daily life.
PSAM Advantage
- Same-day shipping on core tanks and fittings Phone support that actually sizes your system Clear diagrams and fittings kits that prevent “oops” trips
Rick’s Recommendation: “Buy for the drawdown you’ll need in three years”
People add bathrooms, gardens, and washers, not fewer. Size for where you’re going.
Key takeaway: Myers + a properly sized pressure tank equals long service life, fewer headaches, and lower lifetime cost.
FAQ: Pressure Tanks and Myers Well Pumps
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
- Start with TDH: add pumping level (feet), service pressure (PSI x 2.31), and friction loss. Cross that against the Myers Predator Plus pump curve to find the GPM at your operating point. A typical three-bath home needs 8–12 GPM; a 1 HP Myers submersible well pump often fits 150–300 feet TDH ranges at 10–12 GPM. If you irrigate, consider sustained GPM needs. Select horsepower that places your operating point near the pump’s best efficiency point (BEP)—that’s where you get lower amperage draw, quieter operation, and less wear. Example: The Aranas’ 240-foot well with a 40/60 setting and moderate friction ran beautifully on 1 HP at ~11–12 GPM. Rick’s recommendation: If you’re between sizes, choose the model that holds BEP at your most common demand, not your rarest peak.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
- Most single-family homes land between 7–12 GPM. Multi-head showers and irrigation can push that to 14–16 GPM. A Myers multi-stage pump stacks engineered composite impellers, building pressure efficiently across stages—ideal for deeper wells or 40/60 PSI settings. More stages don’t increase GPM directly; they increase head (pressure) so you can maintain target GPM at higher PSI or deeper water levels. Match the number of stages to your TDH, and choose a pressure tank with drawdown that supports 1–2 minute runtime at that GPM. Result: steady pressure at the fixtures without rapid cycling.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
- The Predator Plus pairs precise impeller geometry, Teflon-impregnated staging, and tight tolerances inside a 300 series stainless steel assembly. Hydraulic losses are minimized, letting more motor power convert to water movement. Combine that with a Pentek XE high-thrust motor engineered for submersible duty cycles and you see reduced watts per gallon moved. Operate at or near BEP and you’ll often cut energy use 10–20% versus similar HP models. In practice, that efficiency holds up best when your pressure tank is sized for longer runs and fewer starts, reducing heat cycles and friction losses.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
- Submerged cast iron can suffer from corrosion, especially in mineral-rich or slightly acidic water. 300 series stainless steel resists corrosion, protects internal components, and maintains tolerances longer—critical for multi-stage performance. Stainless extends seal, bearing, and wear ring life. For homeowners with iron content, CO2, or sand, stainless construction is a must-have. In my field experience, stainless-bodied Myers pumps stay structurally sound far longer than mixed-metal assemblies in the same wells, especially when paired with proper filtration and a right-sized pressure tank that prevents cycling abuse.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
- Myers’ Teflon-impregnated staging reduces friction at wear surfaces. When trace grit or fine sand enters, the materials shed abrasion better than standard plastics. Lower friction equals less heat and less binding at startup. Combine that with steady-state operations (thanks to adequate tank drawdown) and you reduce the micro-wear that slowly degrades pump curves. If your well is sandy, a proper intake screen and drop-pipe velocity control help. The tank-side piece of the puzzle is fewer starts—less turbulence, less grit thrash, longer life.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
- Pentek XE motors use optimized windings, high-thrust bearings, and robust insulation built for submersible duty. High-thrust design keeps axial loads from multi-stage impellers in check, reducing bearing wear. Lower electrical losses convert to cooler operation. Add thermal overload protection and lightning protection, and you’ve mitigated common failure points. This efficiency shows up in lower current at the same hydraulic output—especially when your system runs longer, calmer cycles because your pressure tank is sized for proper drawdown.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
- Many experienced DIYers install pumps successfully, but there’s zero shame in using a licensed well contractor—particularly for deep wells, long drops, or when trenching and pitless adapters are involved. You’ll need proper lifting gear, electrical knowledge for safe 230V connections, and confidence with check valve placement and waterproof wire splice kits. If you DIY, PSAM can supply a complete kit: pump, drop pipe, torque arrestor, safety rope, tank tee, pressure switch, and fittings. Rick’s recommendation: If you’re not 100% on TDH calculations, wire gauge, or safety protocols, hire it out. Your family’s water is not a learning lab.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
- 2-wire configuration: Start components are in the motor. Simpler wiring, fewer parts, quick to install. 3-wire configuration: Uses an external control box with start/run capacitors—easier component replacement without pulling the pump. Performance can be identical if sized right. Cost and service preferences drive the choice. The pressure tank guidelines—precharge, drawdown, pressure switch settings—are identical for both. Myers offers strong options in both categories so you can prioritize simplicity or serviceability.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
- With correct sizing, a proper pressure tank, and routine checks, 8–15 years is the normal window. In well-managed systems—clean power, correct precharge, sensible irrigation, and minimal sand—I routinely see 15+ years. I’ve walked properties where a carefully protected Myers submersible topped 20. Starts per day and cooling time are the biggest levers you control with the tank. Keep cycles low, and everything inside the stainless body has an easier life.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
- Annually: check tank precharge (2 PSI below cut-in), inspect pressure switch contacts, confirm no leaks at the tank tee, test the relief valve, and verify voltage at the switch under load. Every 2–3 years: pull and inspect filters; if you have sediment, confirm the intake screen is healthy and flow isn’t restricted. Ongoing: avoid rapid on/off irrigation cycling; resize zones to match pump GPM. Keep the mechanical room dry and clean. Rick’s recommendation: Track starts/day with a smart control or a simple log—spikes hint at leaks or failing switch points before they become a no-water emergency.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
- Myers’ industry-leading 3-year warranty outpaces many brands that stop at 12–18 months. It covers manufacturing defects and performance issues under normal use. In practice, the combination of stainless construction, Pentek XE motor protection, and field-proven staging means you rarely need it—but it’s there. Compared with brands offering just one year, the math is simple: fewer replacements, longer coverage, and better support from PSAM reduce total ownership costs by 15–30% for most homeowners.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
- Assume a budget pump at $450–$650 with a small tank. If it cycles hard and dies in 3–5 years, you’ll buy two—plus two installations, plus higher energy from poorer efficiency. A Myers Predator Plus with a properly sized tank might cost more upfront, but at 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP, and with fewer starts/day, energy drops, maintenance shrinks, and lifespan extends. Across a decade, I routinely see homeowners spend less overall with Myers—fewer emergency calls, fewer Saturday water hauls, and far better daily pressure. That peace of mind is, frankly, priceless.
Conclusion: Selecting the Right Pressure Tank Makes Your Myers Pump Last—and Makes Your Home Feel Right
Pressure tanks aren’t glamorous, but they’re the unsung heroes that protect your pump, smooth your showers, and keep your lights-on water life predictable. When you pair a properly sized tank—based on real drawdown at your chosen pressure setting—with a Myers Predator Plus deep well water pump, you unlock the full value of those 300 series stainless steel internals, Teflon-impregnated staging, and the Pentek XE motor’s efficiency. That’s how you get 8–15 years of reliable service, with 20+ on the table for well-maintained systems.
At PSAM, we live for right-sized, no-surprises water systems. We stock the tanks, tees, switches, and fittings that make installs clean and reliable, and we ship fast when your kitchen sink is a trickle and the kids need a bath. Call us, and I’ll help you run the numbers on TDH, GPM rating, and drawdown so your Myers pump operates where it’s happiest—quiet, cool, and dependable.
Rick’s final recommendation: Size your pressure tank for the family you’ll be in three years, not the one you were last summer. That decision will be worth every single penny.